Additional Supplies: Invisible zipper, Interfacing 1. Select your size from the size chart and trace your pattern pieces in your selected size. Transfer all the markings and add in the seam allowances as follows: 2cm unless otherwise noted Waistband 1cm at top and bottom and 2cm on the sides/back Hem and slit 5cm To create hanger loops, cut a strip of lining fabric in line with the grain around 50cm in length and 4cm in width. 2. Fold up the marked seam allowances on your traced pattern pieces and connect the lines. Connect the lines on the right side of the skirt piece with a horizontal line, this will result in a spike. Lay your fabric out flat and cut out 1 each the pocket pieces and front skirt piece. 3. Cut out the remaining pattern pieces. To cut the waistband accurately, you can cut a larger piece of fabric, attach the pattern piece with adhesive and then cut it to size. Be sure to mark the dart and where the lines intersect with a pin. Snip the end of the darts and mark the point with a tailors tack. (See how towards the end of this post) 4. Interface the pocket opening, zipper opening as well as the top and zipper opening edges of the waist band pieces. Mark the oblique folds on the front skirt piece. The easiest way to do this is by marking the end point and using a copy wheel and tracing paper to mark them out. 5. Align the center back and stitch until the zipper opening. Leave 20cm unstitched for the zipper opening. Overlock the raw edges. Press the seam open. Pin and stitch the darts, knotting the threads at the end. Press the darts towards center back. If preferred, you can stitch them down on the angle. 6. Right sides together, align the edge of the smaller pocket bag on the pocket opening of the front skirt piece. Stitch at the 1cm seam allowance. Press the seam open and then flip the pocket piece so wrong sides are together and press. 7. Top stitch the seam you have just pressed. Align the larger pocket bag piece and mark a line where the pocket opening lies. 8. Pin the pocket bag in place and stitch around the curved hem at the 1cm seam allowance. Reinforce this seam by sewing over the stitch line again. Overlock the seam allowances together. 9. Use a ruler and chalk to transfer the oblique fold markings to the right side of the front skirt piece if you haven’t already. They should be parallel with the sloping pocket opening. The marks should align with those you made on the wrong side. 10. Using the markings as a guide, fold and pin from the left towards the right (as you look at the pattern piece). Pin so that you can sew the pleats on the wrong side. 11. On the wrong side, sew close to the edge from the end point towards the waist, making sure to stay stitch and fix the start of each line of stitches. Press the folds. Fix both the folds and pocket bag in place along the waist line and side seam at 5mm seam allowance. 12. Align the waist band pieces with the front and back skirt pieces (be cartful to ensure there are no puckers as you sew). Attach with a 1cm seam allowance. Press the seams towards the waistband. Fold and press the middle back pieces away from each other at 1.5cm. 13. Open the invisible zipper, place the first side right sides together, directly inline with the inside edge of your overlocked edge. Pin in place up to 2cm below the top of the waistband zipper opening. 14. Use a zipper foot, spreading the zipper teeth flat and stitch as close as you can to the zipper teeth. 15. Close the zipper, place a cross-pin on the zipper tape at the seam intersection point and the waistband seam. Open the zipper again and align the pins with the intersection point and waistband seam on the side it will be attached to. Pin in place. 16. Stitch the second side in place up to 2cm below the zipper opening. 17. Press the zip in place. Check the inside of the zip is sitting nicely. 18. Trim the 2cm seam allowance of the inner waistband outside edge for both the inner back waistband pieces. (I actually leave this until step 20 and trim the excess once it is attached). 19. (Right sides together, align the inner waistband with the zipper seam allowance). Sew the inner waistband at 0.7cm to the zipper fastener seam allowance and press. 20. Fold the center back so that the zipper teeth are sandwiched by the two waistband pieces. Since you trimmed the seam allowance earlier this should line up exactly. 21. Stitch the waistband in place at 1cm seam allowance. Snip the curve of the seam allowance to allow for movement (be careful not to go through the stitches). Repeat this step to attach the inner waistband to the front skirt waistband. 22. Press the seams open (using a tailor’s ham or clapper will make this easier) then press to the side. 23. Overlock and press the 5cm hem of the front and back skirt pieces. 24. Fold the point on the hem into a mitered corner (also known as ‘tablecloth’ or ‘letter corner’ in German!). Mark the connection point with pins on each side of the hem (do not pin together). 25. Carefully unfold the corners so the pins don’t fall out. 26. Turn the corners to the back so that the right side of the fabric is on the inside. Align the two pins back on top of each other. The remaining edges do not have to match. If you like, mark the line from the pressed seam allowance to the pins. 27. Stitch along this line to make the mitered corner. Do not cut the seam allowance in case you want
Trendschnitt Skirt and Cami Giveaway
This is me so excited to show off these new makes. My hubby is taking some snaps as I keep an eye on our two boys getting ever closer to that looong flight of wooden stairs.. But that’s not what I’m here to talk about. The pattern (Psst you have a chance to win one of each theses patterns at the end of the post!) The patterns for this cami and skirt are designed by Susanne of Trendschnitt. Her designs are edgy and eye catching. She loves playing with stripes and silhouette. So I contacted Susanne and then proceeded to make a long list of patterns I lusted after. When I eventually narrowed it down she sent me these two. It’s the details that elevate these patterns to the next level. They are beautifully constructed – the kind of patterns that make you want to slow down and enjoy the process. This approach is not great for an 11th hour make for an event the next day but it is great if you want something extra special to pop in your wardrobe. The completed garments have an air of effortlessness that only comes from quality design. Before making these garments the only German words I knew were danke, Lederhosen and gusundheit… now I know oberweite (bust), nahtverdeckten reissverschluss (invisible zip), tischtuchecke (mitered corner or tablecloth corner in German)! But the great news is that I have done all the work for you! You can find an English translation of the instructions for the Jupe skirt No9 here and the top with spaghetti straps no34 here. The details! I love that I can wear the cami and skirt together for a faux dress look or I can wear them separately for completely different looks too! The skirt has this fabulous asymetric hem and angular pleats that perfectly align with the line of the pocket. These angular lines are also picked up in the front and back v-necks of the cami. (Looking at the pic below I might need to grade up at the bust for my next cami). The cami also features side slits and cool triangular side panel. But my favourite feature? It’s the top stitching for sure! It’s not perfect but it was still so satisfying to sew! I’m going to go nuts with the next cami I make and choose a bright contrasting thread. The Fabric I used the Tanpopo print, an original handprinted fabric by the independent Japanese design house, Nocogou. Nocogou is made up of the husband and wife team, Katsuyuki and Megu. They soak up the slow life in the countryside of Aichi Prefecture, Japan with their two cats, Chachamaru and Ohagi! Nocogou fabric designs are inspired by Megu and Katsuyuki’s day to day life. Every piece of their fabric is handprinted with love, using a mould made for each individual colour in the print – resulting in a beautiful gentle texture and a unique piece every single time. Megu and Katsuyuki describe the Tanpopo design as “Dandelions bathed in sunshine. Yellow flowers spread all over.” The fabric itself is a lightweight broadcloth, 100% cotton and is perfect garment sewing. I have a great range of Nocogou fabrics in store, for you to peruse! And there’s a giveaway! If you want to sew up this cami and skirt you can pop over to the Trendschnitt site to purchase them (don’t forget to check out my English translations linked above). You also have just 12 hours left to enter the giveaway I’m currently running on my Instagram page. You could win a paper pattern of the Jupe skirt No9 and a PDF pattern of the No34 Top with Spaghetti Straps! To enter, simply: 1. Follow me @indybindyfabrics 2. Follow the @trendschnitt 3. Tag a sewing friend in the comments on my announcement post on Instagram And you’re in with a chance! If you want more entires… The more friends you tag (in separate comments), the more entries you get! For THREE ADDITIONAL entries, sign up to my mailing list below where you’ll also get 10% off your first purchase, a regular dose of sewing tips & tutorials, and access to members only offers! Leave this field empty if you’re human: The GIVEAWAY ends Monday 4th November, 10pm Tokyo time. The winner will be chosen randomly and announced within 48 hours! GOOD LUCK!!
Fibre Mood Jasmin Pants
I LOVE Spring/Summer sewing. Floaty dresses, flirtatious skirts and ten different versions of the Ogden cami! But as it gets colder my wardrobe goes from fun to functional very fast. For most of Winter you can find me in a uniform of jeans, boots, a sweater and coat. This year, I’m determined to break free! So I’m embarking on sewing pants that can replace my jeans and some coats as well! And these pants? Well, I can imagine living in these babies! Move over jeans – here come my paperbag pants! A pair of paperbag pants have been rattling around in my head for the longest time. I toyed with the idea of hacking a pattern I already owned but then I was presented with the opportunity to make the FibreMood Jasmin pants and they fit the bill perfectly! I am ALL about the high waist. It’s comfortable, waist-defining and chic all at once. What’s not to love?! I definitely tested the Jasmin’s out – I rode to the local oval with my two little boys. It has this great wall for photos but the trade off was an hour of soccer on the field afterwards (yes, I brought a change of shoes!). I wondered if paperbag pants, as cool as they are, would be one of those makes that only goes with a couple things in my wardrobe because of it’s unique silhouette.. but I was way off the mark. They go with SO much, a cami and blazer, bodysuit, tucked in blouse or even a cropped sweater. I feel I could wear these for the office, weekend shenanigans and for date night too! I’ve been splitting my time between family, work and sewing non-stop since our move back to Australia in mid January. I have loved being able to delve into my sewing practice but I’ve not made a lot of time to sit and write about it. But that’s about to change – so if you haven’t subscribed yet, make sure you sign up for my newsletter to be first to hear the inside story of all my makes, new releases to the shop (lots coming soon!!) and any of the fun tutorials or sew alongs coming this year. I would love to slash the Jasmin pattern at mid thigh and make another pair as shorts. They’d dress up any basic tank in an instant. BUT seeing as it’s only getting colder from now on in Australia, I may make a longer version in a lovely heavier fabric first!